Water Heater Not Heating Water? Common Causes and Solutions

Guides
By John F · · 12 min read

There’s nothing quite like the panic of turning on the shower, waiting for hot water, and realizing it’s never coming. I learned this the hard way on a freezing February morning here in Utah. I had a house full of people wanting to shower, and my water heater decided to quit.

Here’s the thing: when your water heater stops heating, your brain immediately jumps to the worst-case scenario. “It’s dead. I need a new one. This is going to cost $2,000.” But honestly? Most of the time, a water heater not heating water is something way simpler than that.

I’ve dealt with this problem three times now (perks of owning older homes in Salt Lake and back on the east coast). Sometimes it was a quick fix I could handle myself. Other times, I swallowed my pride and called a plumber or HVAC company.

Keep reading. I’ll walk you through the seven most common causes of a water heater not heating water, plus how to figure out which one is your problem.

The 7 Most Common Causes of Water Heater Not Heating Water

When your water heater is not heating water properly, it’s usually one of these usual suspects:

1. Tripped Circuit Breaker (Electric Water Heater)

How common is this? Super common. This is the first thing I check every single time.

What it looks like:

  • No hot water at all (completely cold)
  • No sounds coming from the water heater
  • The breaker in your electrical panel is in the middle position (or flipped to OFF)

Why it happens:

Electric water heaters pull a lot of power. If you’re running the AC, doing laundry, and the water heater kicks on at the same time, it can trip the breaker. I’ve had this happen twice during Utah summers.

The fix:

Go to your breaker panel. Find the breaker labeled “Water Heater” (or just the one that’s tripped). Flip it all the way OFF, then back to ON. Wait 30 minutes and test your hot water.

When to call a pro:

If the breaker keeps tripping, don’t keep resetting it. That means there’s a bigger electrical issue (possibly a short in the heating element). Call an electrician.

2. Pilot Light Out (Gas Water Heater)

How common is this? Very common, especially if you have an older gas water heater.

What it looks like:

  • No hot water
  • You open the access panel at the bottom of the tank and don’t see a small blue flame
  • Sometimes you’ll smell a faint gas odor (but if it’s strong, GET OUT and call the gas company)
  • Why it happens:

    Drafts (common in Utah basements), a faulty thermocouple, or just old age. I had a drafty basement in my Sugarhouse rental that would blow out the pilot light every time the wind picked up.

    The fix:

    Follow the relight instructions on the label (usually on the side of the tank). It’s typically:

    1. Turn the gas valve dial to OFF
    2. Wait 5 minutes (seriously, set a timer so gas can dissipate)
    3. Turn the dial to PILOT
    4. Hold down the pilot button and light it with a long lighter
    5. Keep holding the button for 30-60 seconds, then release
    6. Turn the dial to ON

    When to call a pro:

    If the pilot light won’t stay lit, or if you smell gas and can’t find the source, call a plumber or gas technician. Don’t mess around with gas.

    3. Thermostat Set Too Low (Or Broken)

    How common is this? More common than you’d think.

    What it looks like:

  • Water is lukewarm (not ice cold, not hot)
  • The water heater is running (you can hear it or feel warmth on the tank)
  • You recently had work done on the water heater or someone bumped the thermostat
  • Why it happens:

    Someone adjusted the thermostat (kids, a curious houseguest, a handyman). Or the thermostat failed.

    The fix:

    For electric water heaters:

  • Turn off the breaker (safety first!)
  • Remove the access panel on the side of the tank (you’ll need a screwdriver)
  • Look for a dial or digital display showing the temperature
  • It should be set to 120-140°F (I keep mine at 130°F in summer, 140°F in winter)
  • Adjust if needed, replace the panel, turn the breaker back on
  • Wait 2-3 hours and test
  • For gas water heaters:

  • Look at the gas valve at the bottom of the tank
  • There’s a temperature dial (usually marked Low/Medium/High or actual temps)
  • Turn it up a notch
  • Wait 2 hours and test
  • When to call a pro:

    If adjusting the thermostat doesn’t fix it after 3-4 hours, the thermostat itself might be broken. That’s a job for a plumber.

    4. Sediment Buildup (Huge Problem in Utah Hard Water Areas)

    How common is this? If you live in Salt Lake, Davis, or Weber counties, sediment buildup is practically guaranteed.

    What it looks like:

  • Water is warm, but not as hot as it used to be
  • You hear popping, rumbling, or crackling sounds when the water heater runs (sounds like a popcorn machine)
  • The water heater is older than 3-5 years and has never been flushed
  • Why it happens:

    Utah has some of the hardest water in the country. Minerals like calcium and magnesium settle at the bottom of the tank and form a crusty layer. This insulates the heating element (electric) or burner (gas), so it takes longer to heat the water. This is one of the most common reasons why a water heater is not heating water efficiently in Utah.

    The fix:

    You need to drain and flush the tank. Honestly? This is when I call a plumber. I tried doing it myself once and ended up with water all over my basement floor. It’s not hard, but it’s messy and time-consuming.

    If you’re DIY-inclined, you’ll need:

  • A garden hose
  • A bucket
  • 30-60 minutes
  • A floor drain or outdoor area to drain the water
  • When to call a pro:

    If you’ve never done this before, or if the tank hasn’t been flushed in 5+ years, call a plumber. They can do it in 20 minutes and check for other issues while they’re there.

    Pro tip: I now flush my tank once a year in October (before winter hits). It costs $100-$150, but it’s way cheaper than replacing a water heater.

    5. Broken Heating Element (Electric Water Heaters)

    How common is this? Pretty common, especially if your water heater is 7+ years old.

    What it looks like:

  • No hot water at all, or water that’s only slightly warm
  • The breaker isn’t tripped
  • The thermostat is set correctly
  • Most electric water heaters have TWO heating elements (upper and lower). If one breaks, you’ll get some hot water, but not enough.
  • Why it happens:

    Wear and tear, sediment buildup (which burns out the element), or a power surge.

    The fix:

    You can test the heating element with a multimeter, but I’m going to be honest: this is where I tap out and call a plumber. Replacing a heating element involves draining the tank, disconnecting wires, and not flooding your basement. Not worth the DIY headache.

    Cost:

    Heating element replacement in Utah typically runs $200-$400 (parts and labor).

    When to call a pro:

    If you’ve ruled out the breaker and thermostat, and your water heater is electric, this is probably your issue. Call a plumber.

    6. Gas Valve Failure (Gas Water Heater)

    How common is this? Less common than other issues, but it happens.

    What it looks like:

  • The pilot light is lit, but the main burner won’t turn on
  • No hot water
  • The thermostat is set correctly
  • Why it happens:

    The gas valve controls when gas flows to the burner. If it fails, gas won’t flow even if the pilot light is on.

    The fix:

    You can’t fix this yourself. The gas valve needs to be replaced by a licensed plumber or gas technician.

    Cost:

    Gas valve replacement in Utah typically runs $300-$500.

    When to call a pro:

    Immediately. Don’t mess with gas components.

    7. Your Water Heater Is Just Old (And Dying)

    How common is this? If your water heater is 10+ years old, this is very likely.

    What it looks like:

  • Intermittent hot water (hot one day, cold the next)
  • Rusty or discolored water
  • Leaks around the base of the tank
  • The tank is older than 10 years
  • Why it happens:

    Water heaters last 8-12 years on average. In Utah, with our hard water, they tend to die closer to 8-10 years. The tank corrodes from the inside, heating elements wear out, and eventually, it’s just done.

    The fix:

    There’s no fix. It’s time to replace it.

    Cost:

    Water heater replacement in Utah runs $800-$2,500 depending on a few key factors:

  • Tank size (40 vs. 50 vs. 75 gallons)
  • Type (traditional tank vs. tankless)
  • Installation complexity (venting, electrical upgrades, etc.)
  • My last water heater cost around $2,000 to replace (tank, parts, labor, taxes, etc).

    When to call a pro:

    If your water heater is 10+ years old and you’re having multiple issues, get a quote for replacement. Sometimes a $400 repair on a 10-year-old tank is just delaying the inevitable.

    Utah-Specific Considerations

    A few things that make water heater problems worse here in Utah:

    Hard Water Is No Joke

    If you’re in Salt Lake, Davis, Weber, or Utah counties, you’re dealing with some of the hardest water in the U.S. This means:

  • Sediment builds up FAST (every 1-2 years, not every 5 years like in other states)
  • Heating elements burn out quicker
  • Your water heater will probably die closer to 8 years than 12
  • I’ve started flushing my tank annually. It’s boring, it’s messy, but it extends the life of the heater.

    Cold Winters Equal High Demand

    December through March, your water heater works overtime. If it’s borderline failing, winter is when it’ll give up completely. I always check my water heater in October now.

    Older Homes in SLC, Sugarhouse, The Avenues

    If you’re in an older neighborhood, your water heater might be undersized for modern usage (dishwashers, washing machines, multiple showers). This isn’t a malfunction when your water heater is not heating water fast enough for everyone—you just need a bigger tank.

    Quick Troubleshooting Checklist

    Here’s the order I check things when my water heater stops heating:

  • Check the breaker (electric) or pilot light (gas) – 2 minutes
  • Check the thermostat setting – 5 minutes
  • Listen for sounds (popcorn = sediment, hissing = leak) – 2 minutes
  • Check the age of the tank (look for the serial number sticker) – 2 minutes
  • Test the water temperature (cold = element/valve, lukewarm = thermostat) – 5 minutes
  • If none of these fixes it, call a plumber.

    When to DIY vs. When to Call a Pro

    I handle it myself when:

  • Resetting a tripped breaker
  • Adjusting the thermostat
  • Relighting the pilot light (gas)
  • Flushing the tank (an easy afternoon task)
  • I call a plumber when:

  • Replacing heating elements or gas valves
  • Anything involving electrical wiring or gas lines
  • If the tank is leaking or more than 10 years old
  • Why I don’t DIY everything:

    Look, I’m not a licensed plumber and, now that I’m older, I know my limits. After I tried replacing a heating element myself and ended up with 40 gallons of water on my basement floor, I learned my lesson. Some things are worth paying a pro for.

    Cost Breakdown (Utah Pricing)

    Here’s what I’ve paid (and what friends have told me) for common water heater repairs in Utah:

    | Issue | DIY Cost | Professional Cost |
    |—|—|—|
    | Tripped breaker | FREE | $75-$150 |
    | Pilot light relight | FREE | $75-$150 |
    | Thermostat adjustment | FREE | $75-$150 |
    | Tank flush | FREE (garden hose and wrench) | $100-$200 |
    | Heating element replacement | $50-$100 (parts) | $200-$400 |
    | Gas valve replacement | Not DIY | $300-$500 |
    | Full water heater replacement | Not DIY | $800-$2,500 |

    When to replace vs. repair:

    If your water heater is over 10 years old and the repair costs more than $500, I’d replace it. You’re probably just delaying the inevitable.

    Next Steps: Find a Pro in Utah

    If you’ve tried these troubleshooting steps and you’re still getting cold showers, it’s time to call in the pros. I’ve put together a directory of water heater repair companies across Utah.

    Find help near you:

  • Water heater repair in Salt Lake City – 250+ companies, ratings, and reviews
  • Water heater repair in Provo – Serving Utah County
  • Water heater repair in Ogden – Serving Weber County
  • Browse all Utah counties – Find companies statewide
  • Good luck and may your showers always be hot!

    P.S. If this guide helped you, bookmark it for next time. Because water heaters always fail at the worst possible moment.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Q: How long should I wait after adjusting the thermostat before testing the water?

    A: Wait at least 2-3 hours. Water heaters are slow. I usually adjust it in the morning and test it after lunch.

    Q: Can I use my water heater if the pilot light keeps going out?

    A: No. If the pilot light won’t stay lit, there’s a safety issue (probably the thermocouple). Don’t keep relighting it. Call a pro.

    Q: How often should I flush my water heater in Utah?

    A: Once a year minimum. Our hard water is brutal. I do it every October.

    Q: Is it normal for my water heater to make noise?

    A: Some noise is normal. But if it sounds like a popcorn machine or jet engine, that’s sediment buildup. Time to flush it.

    Q: How do I know if my water heater is under warranty?

    A: Check the label on the side of the tank for the serial number. Google the brand and serial number to decode the manufacture date. Most tank warranties are 6-12 years.

    Q: Why isn’t my water heater heating?

    A: The most common causes are a tripped breaker (electric), pilot light out (gas), thermostat set too low, sediment buildup, or a broken heating element. Use the troubleshooting checklist above to identify which one.

    Scroll to Top